Are C1 and C2 always the Carli caps?

No. **C1/C2** is revision-dependent silkscreen. Other boards use e.g. **C601/C602**. Always check your board.

**824** ≈ **820 nF**, **J** = tolerance; often with **500V** on yellow film caps (frequently Carli).

Is swapping two caps enough?

Often capacitance loss is the main cause — not always the only one. Measurement and a tested PSU are safer than blind DIY.

Why not DIY for most people?

Primary side, residual charge and solder quality. One mistake can cost more than a tested board or fixed-price repair.

Which article covers the dead-start pattern?

[LG OLED won't turn on](/en/blog/lg-oled-fernseher-geht-nicht-mehr-an).

Carli capacitors on LG OLED – C1/C2 faults

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AAmparioWeb TeamSeptember 16, 2026Sep 16, 20262 min read61 views

In short

Forums mention Carli capacitors, C1/C2, C601/C602 and 820 nF (often marked 824J) when an LG OLED will not start. They usually mean yellow film capacitors on the PSU.

Silkscreen names (C1, C2, C601, C602 …) vary by revision. There is no single universal position for every chassis. What matters is capacitance loss — not the forum nickname.

What forums mean by C1/C2

Community posts often say “replace C1/C2”. That is a local label on one board revision — not an LG service code for all models. Other boards label related film caps C601/C602 or similar.

When comparing photos: always match your EAY/EAX board. Blind soldering “because the thread said C1” can hit the wrong pads.

Carli / yellow film caps, often 824J ≈ 820 nF / 500V
Forum labels C1/C2, C601/C602 — revision-dependent
Measurement: clear drop below nominal (often far under 820 nF)
Symptom cluster: no start, clicking, blink code, intermittent

Symptom chain and blink patterns

Classic: TV won't turn on, clicks, standby LED missing or red LED blinks. Some see 3×, 4× or continuous blink / boot-loop — patterns vary by series; no binding universal table.

Deep dive: won't turn on. Blink triage: red LED blinking. Click-click no picture: clicks twice.

DIY soldering vs tested board — clear recommendation

Proper capacitor replacement can help — with correct specs, clean soldering and PSU knowledge. For most users the risk is high: residual charge, primary side, cold joints, wrong caps, collateral damage.

AmparioWeb therefore recommends for most people: a tested replacement PSU or fixed-price repair instead of hobby soldering on a mains-side board. Cheap used boards often carry the same aged Carli film caps.

Safety notice

Mains voltage and charged electrolytics are lethal. Unplug, wait, discharge before desoldering. Never solder under power.

Unsure? Keep the set closed and use Repair.

What AmparioWeb offers

We see the Carli / 820 nF wear pattern in practice, map the right PSU via EAY/EAX and supply tested boards — or repair at a fixed price.

Start: Find number, Parts, Repair. Swap overview: replace PSU board.

Frequently asked questions

Are C1 and C2 always the Carli caps?: No. C1/C2 is revision-dependent silkscreen. Other boards use e.g. C601/C602. Always check your board.
What does 824J mean?: 824 ≈ 820 nF, J = tolerance; often with 500V on yellow film caps (frequently Carli).
Is swapping two caps enough?: Often capacitance loss is the main cause — not always the only one. Measurement and a tested PSU are safer than blind DIY.
Why not DIY for most people?: Primary side, residual charge and solder quality. One mistake can cost more than a tested board or fixed-price repair.
Which article covers the dead-start pattern?: LG OLED won't turn on.