# Carli capacitors on LG OLED – C1/C2 faults

> Carli capacitors / C1 C2 / 820 nF in LG OLED PSUs: forum names, capacitance loss, why a tested board often beats DIY soldering. AmparioWeb repairs and supplies tested PSUs.

## In short

Forums mention **Carli capacitors**, **C1/C2**, **C601/C602** and **820 nF** (often marked **824J**) when an **LG OLED** will not start. They usually mean yellow **film capacitors** on the **PSU**.

Silkscreen names (**C1**, **C2**, **C601**, **C602** …) **vary by revision**. There is no single universal position for every chassis. What matters is **capacitance loss** — not the forum nickname.

## What forums mean by C1/C2

Community posts often say “replace **C1/C2**”. That is a **local label** on one board revision — not an LG service code for all models. Other boards label related film caps **C601/C602** or similar.

When comparing photos: always match **your** EAY/EAX board. Blind soldering “because the thread said C1” can hit the wrong pads.

- Carli / yellow film caps, often 824J ≈ 820 nF / 500V
- Forum labels C1/C2, C601/C602 — revision-dependent
- Measurement: clear drop below nominal (often far under 820 nF)
- Symptom cluster: no start, clicking, blink code, intermittent

## Symptom chain and blink patterns

Classic: TV **won't turn on**, **clicks**, standby LED missing or **red LED blinks**. Some see **3×**, **4×** or **continuous** blink / boot-loop — **patterns vary by series**; no binding universal table.

Deep dive: [won't turn on](/en/blog/lg-oled-fernseher-geht-nicht-mehr-an). Blink triage: [red LED blinking](/en/blog/lg-oled-rote-led-blinkt). Click-click no picture: [clicks twice](/en/blog/lg-oled-klickt-zweimal-geht-aus).

## DIY soldering vs tested board — clear recommendation

Proper capacitor replacement **can** help — with correct specs, clean soldering and PSU knowledge. For most users the risk is high: residual charge, primary side, cold joints, wrong caps, collateral damage.

AmparioWeb therefore recommends for most people: a **tested replacement PSU** or **fixed-price repair** instead of hobby soldering on a mains-side board. Cheap used boards often carry the **same aged Carli film caps**.

## Safety notice

**Mains voltage and charged electrolytics are lethal.** Unplug, wait, **discharge** before desoldering. **Never solder under power**.

Unsure? Keep the set closed and use [Repair](/en/reparatur).

## What AmparioWeb offers

We see the Carli / 820 nF wear pattern in practice, map the right **PSU** via EAY/EAX and supply tested boards — or repair at a fixed price.

Start: [Find number](/en/nummer-finden), [Parts](/en/bauteile), [Repair](/en/reparatur). Swap overview: [replace PSU board](/en/blog/lg-oled-netzteil-platine-tauschen).

## FAQ

**Are C1 and C2 always the Carli caps?**

No. **C1/C2** is revision-dependent silkscreen. Other boards use e.g. **C601/C602**. Always check your board.

**What does 824J mean?**

**824** ≈ **820 nF**, **J** = tolerance; often with **500V** on yellow film caps (frequently Carli).

**Is swapping two caps enough?**

Often capacitance loss is the main cause — not always the only one. Measurement and a tested PSU are safer than blind DIY.

**Why not DIY for most people?**

Primary side, residual charge and solder quality. One mistake can cost more than a tested board or fixed-price repair.

**Which article covers the dead-start pattern?**

[LG OLED won't turn on](/en/blog/lg-oled-fernseher-geht-nicht-mehr-an).